Charlie Constantinou’s SS27 collection is an exploration of shifting tradition. Drawing on his Cypriot background, the collection looks specifically at the transition period in the 19th century between Ottoman and British rule. The show invites us to consider what heritage means and what we might consider to be ‘traditional clothing’ in the future.
A hybrid approach between modern and antiquated clothing permeates almost every aspect of the collection. Constantinou works with traditional Cypriot silhouettes, such as the Vrakas (pleated breeches), Antari (layered robes) and Zostra (waistband scarves), incorporating them into the western wardrobe. He places relatively traditional Vrakas alongside cargo shorts to suggest an essential similarity between the two. The Antari is adapted into something akin to a modern raincoat. In the materials too he explores the tension between tradition and modernity, frequently pairing natural cottons and linens with modern synthetic fabrics. This invites us to recognise the original purposes of many traditional garments, such as equipping the wearer to deal with the weather, and consider how those purposes can be rendered faithfully for the modern western wearer. Constantinou’s colour palette begins with natural browns and greys, then moves through Indigos to incorporate ombre pinks and yellows for a modern touch. The swirl pattern featured on several pieces, resembling a stylised wood grain or wind and felt both modern and rustic.
Constantinou’s collection is a clear development in an increasingly defined repertoire. He incorporates much of the military-style dress that inspired his AW26 collection and the Cypriot laurel pattern that has by now become a signature in his work. This season saw an exciting new collaboration with Nike which involved redyeing and recoating shoes through natural dyeing processes, by now a crucial part of his workmanship. His collection has a kind of sincerity (even down to the models’ hair, which is relatively unstyled and allowed to speak for itself) which speaks of maturity as a designer, and it will be interesting to see how the designer develops this further in AW27.
