On Saturday 20 September, Fashion Scout’s annual Ones To Watch runway celebrated a fresh roster of international designers hailing from Armenia, Dubai, Libya, London, Thailand, and the USA. The catwalk came alive with boundless personality and charm, each designer drawing on their own cultural identity and signature techniques. Now in its 13th year, the Ones To Watch show continued to highlight the interplay between ingenuity and authenticity, spotlighting the LFW 2025 cohort: Jaoka Kaokha, Ruaa Elmansuri, Designz by Minaaz, Selenee, KimLin, and SONAIS.
London-based designer Jaoka Kaokha kicked off the show with a bang, presenting her collection Temple of the Mind. Kaokha’s work draws inspiration from her Thai heritage and her career as a tattoo artist, exploring the connection between skin and fabric. Her latest collection delved into ceremonial silhouettes and spirituality, balancing strength and fragility while reflecting on the need to protect one’s inner peace.
Models moved down the runway at a deliberate, unhurried pace, allowing the audience to take in every detail of Kaokha’s intricate ensembles — pieces crafted by taking a tattoo gun to handmade natural latex, alongside jersey draping inspired by traditional Thai dress. Through her presentation, Kaokha cements herself as a designer to watch, deftly translating technique into pure expression.
Armenian brand KimLin followed with Skylines, a collection inspired by the architecture of Zvartnots International Airport — Armenia’s main international airport, built in the 1970s. Founded by Yeva Hovhannisyan and her mother Lin, the brand emphasises craftsmanship, architectural inspiration, and family heritage.
The collection showcases a primarily achromatic palette, punctuated by vivid shades of pistachio. Architecture serves as the focal point of each look, but the garments truly come alive on the runway — a simple black long-sleeve maxi dress, for instance, moves beautifully, accessorised with an oversized black-and-pistachio purse and aviator glasses. A standout look features a skirt reminiscent of Diesel’s iconic belt skirt, paired with a grey zip-up top trimmed in pistachio piping and a fluffy bandana tied neatly under the model’s chin. Overall, KimLin’s collection feels like a masterclass in construction, skillfully balancing technical precision with cultural pride.
Ruaa Elmansuri’s SS26 collection draws from traditional Libyan Amazigh clothing, tracing the nation’s journey from Italian decolonisation through its decades-long monarchy. The garments are ethereal and meticulously detailed, adorned with silver embellishments and oversized hoods in vivid tones of cream and amethyst.
The collection feels like a natural extension of Elmansuri’s design ethos, weaving her North African heritage with London’s creative energy. Sustainability lies at its core — each piece is crafted from upcycled and deadstock materials and brought to life through collaborations with Libyan artisans and British makers for embroidery and embellishment. It’s no wonder artists like Jess Glynne and The Last Dinner Party have turned to Elmansuri for her distinctive touch — for this otherworldly designer, the only way is up.
UK-based fashion house Selenee invited the audience to reflect on extensions of silhouette, spirit, and possibility. Building on designer MT Yang’s fusion of refinement and innovation — and her lifelong fascination with sleeves — the Reach collection explores what happens when fashion takes flight, with each silhouette offering a skyward gesture of transformation.
The collection is anchored by its hero piece, the Virelle dress — named from the French words viré (turned) and elle (she) — symbolising a feminine pivot to close out the collection’s journey through extension. Other highlights include lambskin bell sleeves, a meticulously tailored cropped peplum jacket paired with high-rise trousers, and a belted black coat featuring delightfully voluminous sleeves.
In recent years, Armenian designer Sona Hovsepyan has evolved SONAIS from a handcrafted bag line into a fully fledged fashion brand, guided by her love of storytelling and her flair for bold volumes and structural cuts. The SIESTA collection explores the balance between tranquillity and resilience, using dots as a central motif — evoking both the blazing midday sun and bubbles rising through water.
Lightweight cottons and organzas are juxtaposed with structured wools and canvas, while sculptural silhouettes inspired by Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí ground the collection with precise cuts and intricate detailing. SONAIS’ work immerses the audience in an aquatic dreamscape — whimsical yet wearable, conscious yet bold.
Los Angeles–based couture label Designz by Minaaz closed the show with a full-fledged celebration. The runway opened with a choreographed dance routine, followed by an exuberant display of showmanship as models hyped up the audience.
Known for her dramatic silhouettes and opulent fabrics, the designer stayed true to form for her SS26 collection, showcasing silks, tulles, and organzas adorned with 3D floral appliqués, shimmering sequins, hand embroidery, and sculpted featherwork. Each menswear look was paired with a complementary womenswear ensemble; at the end of the runway, the models stood side by side, presenting the full fantasy — a powerful finale of elegance and empowerment.
Follow Fashion Scout on Instagram
Words: Madelaine Anderson
Photography: Karen Stanley