Karoline Vitto brings back bold body-aware design with ‘Thaw’

After a brief break from the runway, Karoline Vitto returns to London Fashion Week to remind everyone why she is the undeniable queen of size-inclusive sartorial sensuality. And just in time, as the rise of SkinnyTok and the fashion industry’s backtrack on body-inclusivity has once again banished diverse bodies to the shadows. Ever since kicking off her career in 2022 with a cast of exclusively curvy models, the London-based Brazilian designer’s message has always been loud and clear: fashion is for everyone.

Following a bachelor’s degree in her native Brazil, Vitto moved to London to continue her education at Central Saint Martins and the Royal College of Art. Having been named on the DAZED 100 and Vogue Business 100 Innovators: Champions of Change lists, the Fashion East alumna, LVMH Prize semi-finalist and current member of the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN cohort quickly proved herself to be at the forefront of fashion. All thanks to an approach, which is not just body-inclusive, but body-aware. Karoline Vitto’s shows go far beyond inclusive casting tokenism – the designer has made it her mission to celebrate natural curves, constructing clothing intended to follow the flow of folds rather than constricting, an ethos embedded in the brand’s DNA.

For her latest collection entitled ‘Thaw’, Vitto rewrites history, reimagining sleek, minimalist silhouettes of the 90s and early 00s, but leaving behind the heroin chic body standards and toxic diet culture. Low-waisted trousers, exposed midriffs and hip cut-outs intermingle with adjustable clasps, hidden elastics and zips, prioritising the wearer’s comfort and ensuring longevity. Karoline Vitto creates the brand she not only wanted, but needed as a teenager, with clever pattern-cutting a playful nod to girls experimenting with ways to wear garments. The concept is elevated by a mature, restrained colour palette dominated by slate gray, white, navy, and black, reflecting the theme of rebirth and mirroring the darkness we have to endure before the return of spring brings sunshine once again. Models radiate confidence as they glide down the runway with dewy skin and slicked back hair, with jewellery featuring icicles and flowers encased in resin echoing the theme of re-emergence. Certainly a beacon of hope for the future of fashion where body shapes are not just a trend to be exploited for clicks before being discarded, Vitto’s designs offer a refrashing take on contemporary chic.

After dressing leading global tastemakers such as Ashley Graham, Alva Claire, Shygirl, and Beth Ditto, as well as appearing in magazines such as Vogue, Dazed, ELLE, or i-D, Vitto aspires to bring her size-inclusive, adaptable clothing to the general public. Through this season’s collaboration with BFC NEWGEN principal sponsor Pull&Bear, a selection of pieces from ‘Thaw’ is now available to purchase online and in-store, with prices ranging from £35.99 to £119. This includes jewellery and accessories, as well as Vitto’s debut foray into menswear. In line with Karoline Vitto’s commitment to inclusivity, her involvement with Pull&Bear expands the retailer’s sizing range. A timely reminder that curvy bodies are here to stay and they will be doing so in style.