KEBURIA looks to the past, the present and the future for AW26

With the recent revival of the military jacket trend in full force, many designers scrambled to fill their runways with a sartorial offering worthy of Napoleon himself. Or perhaps a more 80s take represented by Michael Jackson. Or maybe an indie sleaze version courtesy of Kate Moss attending Glastonbury in 2005? But one brand has long been giving historic motifs and military codes a playful, contemporary twist, managing to transcend the relentless trend cycle – the Georgian fashion house of KEBURIA. Influenced by the socio-political situation in his native Georgia and a natural tendency to experiment, creative director George Keburia has become known for his ability to create collections steeped in historic and cultural references blended with eccentric futurism.

The label, founded in 2015 by Tbilisi-born George Keburia, a self-taught designer, first made a splash when their debut collection was presented at Tbilisi Fashion Week, winning the Best Newcomer Award. KEBURIA began to gain international popularity a few years later, when their sleek Matrix-style sunglasses caught the attention of celebrity stylists in 2017, appearing on the likes of Bella Hadid, Solange, and Rihanna. Since then KEBURIA’s statement garments have been spotted on the pages of major magazines, and have been worn by numerous fashion-forward stars, such as Doja Cat, Emma Chamberlain, Julia Fox, and Peggy Gou.

For Autumn/Winter 2026, KEBURIA embraced ceremonial uniforms, ranging from classic jackets with braided detailing, through corsets and cropped blazers paired with matching micro skirts, to ankle-grazing coat-dresses. Eclectic blue, bright yellow, and vibrant red, as well as silver and gold featured sporadically in a generally muted colour palette of black, khaki and cream.

Models marched down the runway to the oppressively industrial sounds of Georgian post-metal band Quemmekh, sporting an eclectic melange of modernity and tradition. Fur-trimmed jacquards, sharp tailoring and antique-inspired army medals made an appearance alongside washed hoodies, denim with oversized belt buckles, and rhinestoned spiders to create KEBURIA’s signature synthesis of preppy-punk. Exaggerated shoulders, ruffs, and Barbie-esque 3D-printed footwear further highlighted the theatricality of the brand’s sharp tailoring and structural silhouettes.

Following last season’s commemoration of Anna Wintour’s departure from her Vogue Editor-in-Chief post with a classic black slogan tee “BYE ANNA”, KEBURIA continued their cultural commentary by featuring a ribbed mustard t-shirt with stencilled black lettering reading “HI LAUREN SANCHEZ BEZOS” with a large red question mark in the background. The cheeky question definitely made for a viral moment, but its implications perfectly embodied the playful-provocative tension of the fashion industry. Combined with the brand’s rich visual language, KEBURIA’s ability to marry influences from their Georgian heritage with contemporary culture proved once again that they are a creative powerhouse.