Made To Be Seen | In Conversation with Designer Isabella Calzonetti

Isabella Calzonetti is a London-based womenswear designer whose bold, one-of-a-kind garments blur the line between self-expression and social statement. Of Jamaican-Italian heritage and a 2023 graduate of Ravensbourne University, she made her debut at London Fashion Week with a collection that turned heads for both its craftsmanship and its unapologetic message. For Calzonetti, fashion is not just about clothing, but about “empowerment, inclusivity, and the courage to be yourself wholeheartedly.”

Her latest collection, Made to be Seen, transforms lingerie into outerwear that refuses to hide. “These designs are about reimagining traditional lingerie, shifting the focus to confidence, empowerment, and a woman’s ability to transform herself both mentally and physically,” she explains. Each piece can stand alone or be layered creatively, offering the wearer multiple ways to express themselves. In challenging outdated notions of what women “should” wear, Calzonetti also pushes back against objectification and shame. “Made to be Seen is a message that everyone deserves visibility and recognition. It’s a celebration of beauty, confidence, and the right to be unapologetically seen.”

Calzonetti’s design philosophy is rooted in her own experience of navigating dual identity. “Growing up biracial has deeply shaped both who I am and my design signature. I often struggled with my identity, being both Jamaican and Italian, yet at times feeling like I didn’t fully belong to either. Fashion became my outlet, a way to express myself beyond those labels.”

This sense of transformation led her to embrace upcycling and second-hand clothing. “I love taking one-off pieces and combining them to create something entirely new,” she says. Her brand logo, two women sharing a joint afro symbolises her dual heritage and also celebrates Black hair as an emblem of resilience and beauty. “Afro hair has long been underrepresented in mainstream media. Black hair is more than hair, it’s a sign of resilience, and an emblem of Black beauty. I want to see it celebrated more.” Even her brand name carries legacy. “Calzonetti is Italian. It’s the surname of my biological grandfather, who passed away very young. Naming my brand after him is a tribute to his legacy and to the craftsmanship and rich history of Italian fashion, something I strive to honour in the quality of my work.”

Calzonetti recalls first discovering fashion as her outlet in her teenage years. “I think around 15 or 16, during high school, that’s when I was still trying to figure out who I was, and fashion became a way to explore that. I realised I wasn’t interested in following trends or what was considered popular. I was drawn to what felt different. Fashion gave me the freedom to push boundaries and create something that was entirely my own.” When she begins a new collection, she starts with the body itself. “The female body is always my starting point,” she explains. “I’m drawn to its natural lines and movement, and I design to amplify that, to make women feel sexy, powerful, and unstoppable. Each silhouette celebrates the body, accentuating curves and contours, with cutouts that are bold statements of confidence and self-expression.”

The spark for Made to be Seen came from both the construction of lingerie and her fascination with visual culture. “I was inspired by a Helmut Newton documentary, his photographs are provocative and while some might argue they’re controversial, I found them striking. The women in his work exude fierceness and power.” Reimagining lingerie as outerwear allowed her to shift the narrative from secrecy and objectification to confidence and ownership. Empowerment is at the heart of every piece she makes. “My goal is to make people feel confident. I want my customers to feel like they are expressing themselves to the fullest and, because of that, not afraid to stand out.”

That same care extends to her approach to sustainability, which she defines in broader terms than materials alone. “Sustainability should be at the forefront of every designer’s mind, especially now. I hope fast fashion is on the decline and that more people begin supporting independent brands. It’s not just about fabrics; it’s about how we produce, consume, and value clothing.” For Calzonetti, that means smaller, more transparent supply chains, garments designed for longevity, circular life cycles, and minimal waste. “We only have one Earth, and if we want the privilege to keep creating, to keep making art, we have to take responsibility for how we do it.”

Her debut at London Fashion Week came just months after graduating. “Showing at London Fashion Week had always been a dream of mine when I moved to London and began studying here, so being selected felt surreal. It meant everything to me. It was a moment of validation, proof that everything I had done up to that point had meaning and potential.” The experience was as demanding as it was rewarding. “Of course, it was incredibly stressful, but it also confirmed that this is what I love and what I want to keep pursuing. The next time I show at LFW, I want it to feel completely new, I want to challenge the way we present clothing and push the boundaries of what a fashion show can be.”

Looking ahead, Calzonetti is working with The King’s Trust to grow her brand. “Currently, I produce everything myself, which is challenging to sustain if I want this to be my full-time career. I hope to introduce limited drops and made-to-order garments produced by local seamstresses or smaller UK manufacturers. While still using deadstock and upcycled materials, I want to offer high-quality pieces consistently, in multiple sizes, and at fair prices, so that they can be worn in everyday life.” Bespoke will always remain central to her work, but she wants to ensure her designs can reach more people without sacrificing sustainability or individuality.

When asked who she would most like to collaborate with, her answer is immediate. “I’m going with Erykah Badu. She is an undeniable fashion icon, original, fearless, and unapologetically herself. She lives and breathes fashion, constantly breaking rules and redefining what it means to express oneself through style. I believe we could create something powerful together, a campaign, a product or accessory, and or an event/community that drives real influence and impact.”

As her brand evolves, Calzonetti is clear about what she hopes her legacy will be. “I want my work to leave a mark of inclusivity, especially for young people, and young women of colour, who deserve to feel represented in this industry. I hope to be known as a designer who cares deeply about the world we live in and the people in it. Above all, I want to create a space and a community that celebrates empowerment, self-expression, and the courage to be yourself

wholeheartedly.” In a short time, Isabella Calzonetti has established herself as a designer with vision, voice, and purpose. Her garments are more than fashion; they are declarations of identity, confidence, and beauty. As she continues to grow her brand, her message remains unwavering: fashion is not about blending in but about daring to be seen.