Since his 2008 LFW debut, Mark Fast has remained a trailblazer in the world of luxury knitwear, dressing celebrities and brands such as Rihanna and Swarovski. He’s got drive — and he shows no signs of slowing down. His SS26 collection was unveiled at EartH, located in the heart of Dalston, and as hyper-pop and industrial beats filled the room, a story of resilience began to unfold.
The ability to find beauty within chaos serves as Fast’s primary inspiration for the collection, a process he refers to as a “metamorphosis”. Particularly enamoured by sea glass (a gorgeous debris made from discarded manmade objects that wash up on beaches), in his own words, the collection is shaped by “tide, time, and transformation.” Sea glass can take up to 200 years to form, and to Fast, this reflects a type of strength, a resilience — the idea that beauty can always be a byproduct of the mayhem.
Keeping in with the aquatic theme, the shoreline also serves as a key motif throughout the collection. There’s intricate knitted corsetry that imitates sailing ropes, chiffon jackets and tassel necklaces whose movements echo underwater plants — even denim that appears to have enjoyed a long day of sunbathing. Marking a departure from the designer’s usual neon palette, Fast’s muted colour choices are, in his words, “colours softened and weathered like polished glass shaped by the sea.” And while the contrast between the soft shades of the clothing do provide a conflict against the darkness of the venue that seems relevant to the collection’s theme — one can’t help but wonder how these looks would transform on an actual beach. But obviously, it’s not Miami Fashion Week.
Fast’s classic silhouettes and techniques are in full swing as usual, but a newfound primitiveness to this collection that hasn’t manifested itself in his prior work: each model has seemingly untouched hair, natural makeup, and minimal jewellery — even when necklaces do appear, they often look like the sort of antique you’d find on a washed up cove, a sort-of shipwrecked chic.
Standout looks included salmon and black high-low chiffon dresses paired with classic Fast-ian knee high bleached denim boots, and the finale look — featuring a gothic bodice and trousers adorned with delicately placed feathers.
In a world that seems so occupied with hate and conflict, perhaps Fast reminds us that dazzle can still be found within the disorder.
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Words: Rory Fainaru
Hair: Neil Moodie
Makeup: Sharon Dowsett
Casting: Emilie Astrom
Sound Design: Izzy Lindqwister
Show Calling: Go2Show
Show Lighting: Rockit Event Production
Photography: Iker Aldama, Ashlyn Lin
Videography: Craig Maddison
Jewellery by Vicki Sarge
Nails by Jada Ellize