Poet-Lab AW26 Reclaims Identity Back ‘Inside The LAB’

It’s no secret many have started to question the relevance of London Fashion Week as of late. Birthplace to fashion saints such as McQueen, Chalayan and Westwood, the last decade has seen London take a backseat, favouring a quieter and more sanitised approach. Seemingly, this acted as a springboard for Giuseppe Iaciofino, founder of Poet-Lab – whose AW26 collection appears to re-introduce the customs associated with LFW’s heyday.

This season, Poet-Lab cite Princess Diana as an influence, and revolve their AW26 show around “reclaiming identity.” This manifested itself in a few ways: RuPaul’s Drag Race alumni Elliott and Tayce were among those walking, of course a nod to recent drag bans in the United States. Casting was very pointed : whether it be elderly or androgynous models – the reclamation of identity – or perhaps refusal to conform to a set identity, was evident throughout.

Needless to say, where’s there drag – there’s drama. Tayce ended the show running through the bare Studio Spitalfields, gargantuan black train sweeping the floor behind her. Here, the models were the main characters – a tough feat considering the ultra-operatic garments. No matter how grand or innovative the clothes were, the respective models remained in control of the narrative.

Speaking about the collection, Giuseppe Iaciofino shares “This season, POET-LAB traces a quiet but decisive shift: the moment a woman moves from adapting to expectation to owning her own narrative. Inside the Lab reflects on the systems that shape women socially, culturally, and visually, reframing refinement as something chosen rather than imposed. Rather than rebellion, the collection proposes clarity, control, and self-definition.

Guided by restraint and inner alignment, the silhouettes are clean and intentional, with exposure that is deliberate and sensuality. A subtle dialogue with past eras and personal emancipation informs a new language of power: dignity after rupture. Echoing Diana, Princess of Wales’ instinct to lead from the heart, this is a move away from approval and toward self-trust. Each look marks a phase of reclaiming identity, from interruption to arrival. The rest unfolds on the runway.”

Outside, London was grey and overcast, but Poet-Lab offered a reminder of the talent this city has produced. And as the show came to a close, a loud applause marked the end of one of the week’s most thought-provoking shows.