Defining a new aesthetic of genderless luxury streetwear in London, Poet-Lab had another successful season at London Fashion Week, leaving us with the question “What if remembering was the last act of freedom?” Merging themes of architecture, history and carrying the memory of places forward, Remember was inspired by Albania and the designer’s long-term muse, Elton Ilirjani. Once again playing with the tension between softness and structure, Creative Director Giuseppe Iaciofano presented another collection charged with tension, where soft, fluid silhouettes meet sharp, structured tailoring; delicate lace and sheer layers sit alongside glossy, metallic textures; and classic wardrobe codes are pulled apart and rebuilt into something far more eccentric. Black and grey buildings in Cambridge Heath became the backdrop for models strutting down the catwalk, bringing the collection’s brutalist, raw aesthetic to life.
Black dominates, but the collection is anything but flat. White cotton, caramel knitwear, flashes of metallic silver and a pop of fuchsia break through the darkness, while exaggerated draping, voluminous sleeves and floor-skimming shirts give the collection a theatrical quality. Tinsel-like metallic fringes brought to mind playful pom-poms, adding a sense of fun and whimsy to an otherwise more serious, sculptural collection. Delicate lace, ribbons, bows and feathers disrupted the collection’s sharper silhouettes, introducing a romantic touch, while glossy fabrics brought an industrial feel. Giuseppe brings a chimerical touch to his designs, which makes the whole collection even more fascinating.
Backstage, we got to see his fantastical world up close, where the accessories proved to be a highlight. One of the coolest pieces of the season, the hair glasses featured curly strands branching out from the frame, adding another layer of quirkiness. Hair played an important role overall, with big, branch-like forms framing one model’s head as she received her final touches. Structured carryalls in powder blue and black tied together the architectural theme beautifully. Finished with tonal circular embossing, exposed metal eyelets, and polished hardware, the bags were styled in multiple ways—one clutched by a model, another smaller version hanging from the neck of another. Only Poet-Lab could make a bag feel this versatile. Poet-Lab isn’t chasing minimalism. It’s embracing the drama of getting dressed.
Poet-Lab isn’t chasing minimalism. It’s embracing the drama of getting dressed.
