Fashion week can be very overwhelming. Whether it’s your first or your fiftieth, there is always something else to see, something that you’re missing, and somewhere you need to be.
And while Ray Chu’s ‘Fans Only Club’ SS27 presentation seems like it would be ridiculously exclusive to get into by name alone, there is no fomo here, with the designer himself stating anyone is welcome in the club and to enjoy the designs, and most importantly, have fun.
The collection was based partly off Taiwan’s Sambucus flower (冇骨消), which is known as a symbol of quiet strength and community. Sambucus’ small white blossoms grow in gentle clusters, an idea Chu captures in a gender-fluid wardrobe that features translucent layers, interesting silhouettes, and structured separates. Rather than focusing on structure, Chu focuses on community and flow.
It started with the presentation itself, as the models roamed freely around the bright and airy room, their pastel clothing setting them apart from onlookers and critics. Rather than a traditional runway that is over in a flash and normally has rigid seating plans, an open-floor presentation allowed for the models, and designer himself, to have conversation with anyone that was curious enough to start one.
Curiosity is clearly at the base of this whole collection, with androgyny and playfulness leading the charge. There were some pieces that teased a post-work wear aesthetic, like the deep v-neck corsets detailed with swing hooks that paired with unzipped black pinstripe suit trousers. But others swung for the offline look, thanks to the continuing inspiration from the colourful and nostalgic Taiwan Banana Club. First introduced in the Pre-Spring 2027 capsule, the designs bring a bold and colourful expression of Taiwanese culture, something that London’s fashion scene could absolutely use more of. Some models sported the Taiwan Banana Club t-shirts, like one did with gemstone covered shorts and a matching white distressed baseball cap, while others had a ‘Taiwan Sambucus Club’ shirt on. One had it paired with a red and white towel wrapped around her waist like a swimsuit cover up, while others wore it cropped with a white, floorlength, satin skirt with an embellished belt. It was perfectly balanced between fun and elegant without being cheesy or clashing.
The curiosity doesn’t just come from Ray’s brand, as he partnered up with a few different brands to bring this collection to life and make it one of LFWSS27’s most memorable. Selected glimmery looks used Swarovski ReCreated™ Crystals, which are crystals made from crystal manufacturing breakage. Sewn onto gorgeous blue and white pieces, these crystals mimic water droplets and effortlessly caught the light as the models walked around.
And as the models walked around, they occasionally picked up tennis balls — except these weren’t balls you’d be seeing on a court anytime soon. Ray Chu also partnered with Hello Nancy, the Hong Kong based sexual-wellness brand known for its colourful, fruit-inspired products and fun approach to sex toys. The tennis ball vibrators matched perfectly with the tennis skirts and slightly-sporty disco-ball shorts, connecting to Ray’s ethos that fashion is a way to connect to your body and have fun with it.
