FJU Talents | SS25 – noctismag.com

This season, FJU Talents, a platform dedicated to displaying emerging designers from Taiwan, presented a dreamy look into the worlds of four up-and-coming names: Chi Li, Shun An Chen, DIN, and Chi An Lee. Sponsored by The College of Fashion and Textiles, the annual runway presentation is aimed at enhancing the strength of the school’s most talented alumni, whilst also boosting their exposure on the global stage. Prior to the show, I sense a buzz – FJU Talents is known for showcasing some of the highest creativity on the circuit, and I can tell SS25 is going to be no different.

The runway kicks off with The Power of Transformation by Chi Li. The collection invites the audience to watch as divine generals and magical girls undergo a transformation from ordinary people into world-changing heroes through the ritual of cosplay. Chi Li’s striking garments marry elements from the world of divine generals, revered figures in Taiwanese culture, with softer motifs often associated with the magical girl subculture. The end result is an elegant take on a new generation of divine figures. The colour palette is light, with pastel pinks, greens, and blues, working in harmony with the structured, elaborate silhouettes. Think bows, boning, and buttons.

Next up is Black Sheep, a collection by Shun An Chen. The looks feature several classic menswear silhouettes with imaginative subversions, a gentle nod to the collection’s theme of embracing one’s most brilliant self in the face of uncertainties. The designer opens with a series of all-white looks, some complete with intricate chain detailing, as well as accessories like baseball caps, waist chains, and fluffy white socks. Later on, the designer cleverly pairs a denim ensemble with a baseball cap adorned with black sheep horns, a literal take on the collection’s guiding principle. A highlight of Black Sheep is a striking pair of bell bottom trousers with the pant legs joined together at the back hem, paired with a half-fabric, half-chain top. If that’s what societal outcasts are wearing these days, I want in.

DIN’s collection, titled Magic Momo, Please Help Me !, is the most playful of the four, presenting irreverent knitwear looks fit for a fairytale. In the designer’s own words, the collection tells the story of Magic Momo, a dreamlike alien from a magical planet, who uses their powers to save humanity from a world of endless darkness cast by the Dark Lord. The ten looks are designed to represent the five Magic Momos and their corresponding individuals who are shrouded in the Dark Lord’s shadow. DIN’s Magic Momo designs are appropriately out of this world, featuring exaggerated headpieces, 3-D shapes, heart and star motifs, and the brightest neon shades of yarn imaginable. The corresponding looks are more anchored, featuring colder hues and slightly more angular shapes. I conclude that despite misgivings about the Dark Lord and their desire to send the world into an eternity of shadows, they certainly have a good sense of style.

The show closes with Addicted to Mountains by Chi An Lee, a stunning gaze into the designer’s exploration of the Daoist philosophy of the interdependence between ‘being’ and ‘non-being’. Throughout the collection, yarn is expertly used to convey never-ending motion, weaving in soft patterns that emulate the subtle and elusive essence of Chinese ink paintings. The opening garments are earthly – we see a floor-length knitted dress with a cowl collar and a draped asymmetrical layer, followed by a similar dress layered over a one-sleeve top and trousers made of contrasting material. Elsewhere, the designer presents bold shapes, including a caped jacket with protruding, rounded shoulders paired with a sheer skirt that flows like water. All the garments succeed in carrying out the designer’s vision of presenting looks that read like landscape paintings, and the variety is impressive. I feel transported from valleys, to mountains, to tundras, to lakes, and connect to the collection’s profound exploration of the connection between nature and humanity.