Helen Anthony | SS25 – noctismag.com

Taking place at the Kimpton Fitzroy Hotel in Bloomsbury on September 13th, Helen Anthony lit the room with fuschia accents which highlighted the flamboyant Victorian pillars and lofty ceilings. The brand took to the venue for a second year in a row with a fully stacked lineup. Garments were composed of colourful fabrics, varied materials, leather and convivial patterns. What sounded like house remixes of popular 80s dance tracks reverberated off of the walls and surrounded the audience. Spotlights glistened over the models as they walked toward the press pit.

Some of the most impressionable looks were fully beaded head to toe garments. The first couple included sashaying orange fringe beads and wide seam patterns. These pieces felt designed to upscale a standard outfit. They’d fit nicely over the most grandiose of cocktail dresses all the way to a basic pair of jeans and white t-shirt. The garments shined dramatically under the white lighting, influencing the crowd to swoon in hushed excitement. Though the dresses were beautiful, their construction may prove something to consider for extended wear. It appeared some of the beading did not stand the test of the runway. Models held their hands to their sides, curling up part of the garment between their fingers, adding to the drama of their individual walks.

This season, Helen Anthony dedicated the SS25’ collection to people facing consequences of war and conflict. Highlighting the sentiment of freedom and hope, garments embodied such themes via their unfettered exploration of colour, shape, and combination of materials. The brand believes that “choice is a critical piece of being human – through fashion as art”. Four piece sets took the runway, including matching trousers, shirt, trench coat and tie. I love a monochromatic look and found this to be a clever way to uptick intrigue whilst maintaining uniformity.

Stand out pieces included a one-shoulder leopard print bodysuit paired with an oversized black leather bag. As well as a chrome crinkle two piece suit jacket and skirt. Drama was a centrefold as skin tight micro-shorts were paired with cascading cape-like coattails. Buttons were imbued with a nautical feel as dramatic shoulder pads elongated their wearers. Shimmery tights paired nicely with the satin interior of the jackets as each model floated across the runway.

The show itself lasted forty-five minutes showcasing a staggering near fifty looks. The exact number is uncertain. The colour palette was nostalgic, including deep royal blues, red, orange, yellow, pink and brown. The Helen Anthony “HA” appeared via playful patterns which were constructed via repetition of the brand letters. Though as models passed, it appeared as if it were an abstract design. I found this to be a clever detail, as it seems socially we are moving farther away from heavy branding and toward more subtle or hidden nods to the make of many garments. The collection catered to many stylistic nuances and I could see it donned across events. From weddings, job interviews, to a vaguely naughty* besties trip to Ibiza, the possibilities are endless.