Phoebe English ‘Cloud Cover’ | SS25

Phoebe English founded her eponymous brand in 2011, and since then it’s carved out a space of its own outside of the mainstream fashion system. English’s designs are a fusion of the decorative and utilitarian achieved through sustainable practices – the brand’s ultimate goal is to become an entirely circular practice. With a commitment to pushing the limitations of what artisanal craftsmanship can achieve and consideration for the wellbeing of our planet, Phoebe English is an example of something that still proves to be a rarity – slow fashion. This ethos was channelled through the brand’s recent presentation in Mayfair’s Iconic Images Gallery, entitled Cloud Cover, where the mood was tranquil in the midst of a chaotic Fashion Week. The music felt folkloric, while the models moved at a languid pace that was almost ceremonial. It presented a rare opportunity for stillness, and to give each aspect of intricate craftsmanship and novel detail the attention it’s deserving of.

As is the brand’s custom, the collection came accompanied by a poem. It mentions ‘A double and repeated love/ A dual and duplicated love’ – a reference to the love heart cutouts of the collection repeated throughout, and duplicated by love hearts shaved on to some of the models’ heads. The love hearts on the clothing, however, were created from fabrics English describes as ‘everything we have left’. This includes hotel bedding, bridal silk offcuts, leftover sewing threads and assorted deadstock materials.

Designs were shown on a diverse range of bodies, which worked to highlight both their versatility and functionality. Under stark spotlights, thoughtful details were highlighted: the intricacy of the love heart cutouts is highlighted further when styled with voluminous knee-length bloomers, shirting is detailed with slits along the sleeves to both offer breathability and to mirror their geometric collars. The collection isn’t without sensuality, either; the cutouts allow for glimpses of skin, and a silk-satin tunic dress has an open panel that leaves the back exposed. The colour palette is predominantly monochromatic, making all more impactful the occasional dose of chartreuse, achieved using a dye derived from ragwort that was hand collected in Warwickshire.

Phoebe English has shown at London Fashion Week since her label’s inception, and this most recent presentation has served to further build upon the lore that surrounds her. English is an enigmatic and thought-provoking designer, who over the years has cultivated an aesthetic and ethos that’s entirely her own, but that everyone can learn from.