IA London is an independent avantgarde brand known for its imaginative aesthetics, sculpture-like
constructions, often featuring distortedly edited, in-house made, photography. Striking to provide a
timeless and authentic experience in the era of fast-food fashion, they often score high. The AW22
collection was somewhere in between two realms.
Set in an extravagant Mandrake Hotel, IA aimed to create a full-bloomed fantasy, sewing a vision of
scarred beauty. Operating mostly in black with an occasional colour splash, they shifted focus onto
forms. Exaggerated hourglass-shaped pieces and oversize jackets were highlights of the catwalk as
well as the standout dim-yellow/gold dress with petal sleeves. We’d pick them every day. The most
exciting point of the show was when the Norwegian singer Aurora made a surprise appearance on a
catwalk in an oversized, deconstructed coat with floral imprints.
IA is on their best when designing the complex, figurative garments like a puffer vest featuring a
giant flower, finished off with a sheer, veil-like material. While they have an abundance of creative
potential when it comes to more of an haute couture end of a spectrum, there were a few
shortcomings in ready-to-wear silhouettes. Propositions of long buttoned-up shirts/dresses have
been a fitting addition to the spectrum of looks but didn’t feel as innovative. The imprinted skulls
and skeletons on them were an interesting choice, feeling 2000s old-fashioned throwback. The
Marie Antoinette style hair matched the aesthetics of the space. Over the top was a recurring theme
of the evening.
What put our minds at ease is the fact that IA London is eco-conscious and strives for sustainable
practice. Their one on-demand manufacturing can result in minimal waste and no unwanted stock.
As a Britain-based brand, IA sources their materials locally which contributes to reducing their
carbon footprint.
‘Beautifully Broken’ tries hard to find the balance contrasting themes. It’s a difficult art of master
that can take years of concept exploring to perfect. IA London is halfway there.
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Words: Alex Brzezicka
Photography: The Pesty Demon