Global Fashion Collective: Alex S. Yu, Jasive and The Tis

Alex S. Yu

ALEX S. YU vibrantly kicked off the 18.02 fashion scout catwalk with CAPSULE 006. This series draws inspiration from a reflecting and repurposing of previous collections. That of which showcases much of ALEX S. YU’s creative mastery with its’ bold color pallets and playful patterns, enrobed in intricate mesh overlays. A 1.5-generation immigrant, the designer hails from Taipei, Taiwan and grew up in Vancouver, BC. Deputing his first collection during Vancouver Fashion Week in September 2014, this moment shifted the trajectory of his works – catapulting his recognition forward as Emerging Designer of the Year by Niche Magazine. Accolades are vast, with acknowledgement of his talent by highly reputable publications such as British Vogue, Elle Canada, and i-D, among many others.

This collection positions whimsy on solid ground as practicality paves the way. Neutral browns and blacks worked alongside one another to balance bright reds and greens. Vibrant color is a centerfold but not overused. Much like a layer cake, loud patterns were softened under mesh but all the while not diluted. Attention to detail was not lost on these looks, including Y2K influenced accessories such as star clips, repopularized pairing of cowboy boots and metallic materials. Additionally models were adorned in leather harnesses and chunky acrylic jewelry to establish a contemporary rendition of femininity and playfulness through a functional lens. The show ended with a modern take on a peasant waistline which consisted of iridescent fabrics draped over bright patterns. Drawing the viewer’s eye so strikingly – it’d be very hard to forget.

CAPSULE 006 is a precursor to the heavily awaited 10th anniversary show which is scheduled for next season, Autumn 2024.

Jasive

Jasive debuted on the catwalk with ‘PERFUME’ at London Fashion Week 2024. A highly esteemed entrepreneur and designer, her works aim to promote Mexican culture and heritage through modern takes on classic elegance. Femininity is a central feature of this collection in a way that aims to bolster its’ timelessness in opposition to ephemeral trend seeking. These pieces are designed to leave a mark on their viewer, highlighting classic shades of deep red, blue, silver, and black. Accessorized with oversized eye-catching jewelry of gold, pearls, and black ribbons – this collection was unique yet polished.

Feminine silhouettes were offset by asymmetrical ruffle tie-back belts and floral accents. Those of which came in the form of headpieces, chokers, corsages and pins. Materials were multi-layered elements of velvet, satin, and embroidered flowers, contrasted with metallic cowboy boots. Delicate flounce sleeves added to the romantic capture of intricate silk blooms which presented in each piece. The collection platforms Mexico’s rich heritage in a redefined contemporary take which indefinitely leaves a lasting impression on LFW24. My personal favorite in the collection was an incredibly romantic ball gown, composed of gauzy crinkle chiffon and exaggerated bishop sleeves. Much like the deep alluring scent of an elegant floral fragrance, Jasive has made its mark.

The Tis

I was delighted when The Tis took the catwalk at New Inn Road, Shoreditch. A brand composed by London College of Fashion graduates, The Tis aims to maintain its’ wit and artistic expression while adhering to a high standard of garment quality. Initial impressions reverberate feelings of a romanticized yet cozy ski holiday away. This was most apparent with the unveiling of fur boots, embellished with gemstones and metallic accessories. Garments were made up of browns, blacks, whites, and tans. Contrasting materials of heavy knitwear, faux fur, metallic polyester, and cotton sleeves tied in a level of intrigue that balanced the otherwise neutral palette.

The Tis is focused on a juxtaposition of glam in an otherwise delicate environment. Details appear at the forefront via sheer fabrics and intricate patterns. Understated pieces were uplifted by unconventional silhouettes, coquette-esk bow details, cold shoulder necklines, and floral nods. Highlights included rhinestone encrusted puffer jackets, micro-shorts, mesh skirts, and the occasional knit bonnet. The show ended with an unveiling of white flowers from what was initially a headpiece worn by a model, as she and the designer exited the catwalk hand in hand. The Tis proved that glamor need not be compelled by color alone, that intricate details and contrasting fabrics can do much of the talking. Surely to their hope – many of these pieces will end up on the audience’s wishlists well after the show concluded.