ALENKIE is more than a brand, it is an upcycling project committed to sustainability. Drawing the viewer’s eye to various overlapping colors, textures, and screen printed patches, there was much to take in. Sewn onto nearly every piece was the unmistakable Alenkie ‘A’, that of which was positioned to mimic an inside tag.
Highlighting the notion that ‘clothes talk and say a lot about you’ the brand presents us with a moral perspective, surpassing mere aesthetics. This collection is cruelty-free, made from deadstock fabrics and vintage materials. All in an effort to reduce waste and combat the ravenous fangs of our very ‘fast fashion’ world. ALENKIE believes you do not have to compromise morality for style. This collection is playful and unique, making each element a standalone addition to any wardrobe.
Many of the garments were altered in a way that highlighted the merit of non-traditional uses, ie. two suit jackets repurposed into a skirt. The rise of environmentalism into social consciousness via digital avenues has created an increase in this ‘less is more’ mentality. Primarily this can be seen as fashion influencers are steadily wearing their clothes improperly, on purpose. To give you a fuller picture examples of this include, skirts as dresses, tops as skirts, safety pins as jewelry – you get the picture.
Each piece is one of one and individually distinct. Table napkins sauntered down the catwalk as tops, while deconstructed jackets turned into skirts. I find this direction particularly compelling as it allows people from varying financial backgrounds to engage with the fashion landscape. Specifically in a way that allows repetition and newfound alternation of what could have otherwise been a limited wardrobe.
NANA – ALENKIE’s founder, ensures that these pieces do a phenomenal job of breaking through boundaries to creative freedom of expression. All the while embracing individuality to the fullest extent, no one piece is exactly as the rest.
Next up on the Fashion Scout catwalk was SAFARAH, a Turkish brand which is focused on reincorporation of traditional techniques into contemporary designs. Specifically this brand aims to reflect the balance that arose as a result of embracing cultural diversity in Anatolia since the Mesopotamian Era.
Vibrant colors greeted attendees striding across the runway. Confidence was apparent in these works, exuding out of bold patterns and stark contrasting elements such as black mesh and patterned stockings. Hairstyles varied with many slicked back looks entering the space. Free-form makeup decorated across eyes down to lips and seemingly into blank space as the linework traced behind ears. Either of which created a nice complement to the garments themselves.
These designs reflect Eastern and Andolusian traditions as they meld into existence via modernist western techniques. This goal is solidified through the tools and techniques that are used during the production process. This brand is focused on replicating cultural heritage as it influences the selection of works. All in an effort to uplift Turkish culture to contemporary engagement with a particular focus on fusion of artful designs of the past, into fashion today. The showstopper of the collection was the final look. A model enrobed in an iridescent-white drop waist dress appeared. Near apparition-like, she was decorated with smeared lipstick holding what seemed to be reminiscent of a baby, swaddled in her arms.
Hailing from Kazakstan, a new luxury brand took the catwalk at LFW24 – SERGAZI FIRENZE. This collection is based around a particular focus – the reflection and reimagination of human life and the cyclical cycles we find ourselves in. Namely the process of start, middle, end, and the ways in which we must continually begin again. Not only this, but that there is joy to be discovered in this cycle of reconfiguration as opposed to what could otherwise feel daunting.
Garments which swept across the runway included floor length dresses with conservative necklines only to be contrasted with unusual materials like faux fur. Mini dresses were accompanied by capes composed of flowers atop nude heels and bare legs. Black structured suits presented almost equestrian in enthusiasm with knee high boots and navy color blocking details. Makeup was modest but not stale as it paid a dewy finishing touch to each runway model.
These individually distinct, handwrought pieces are expertly crafted by top artisans spanning across Central Asia. An initially unassuming color palette of nudes, whites, and black presented itself across the collection. To be swiftly accompanied by beading, sequins and textured materials. Attention to detail was key, as we saw the pieces come to life with layered elements and floral additions to capes, pockets, and head pieces which really tied the collection together. A standout piece was a floor length glittering dress adorning itself overtop a turtleneck base and mutton sleeves. All in all – a stunning collection. I’ll be curious to see what they bring to the catwalk next season, as I’m sure is an opinion shared amongst many in the audience.
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Photography: Brandon Hepworth
Words: Lauren Bulla