Global Fashion Collective: Suncun | LFW AW24

It would be an understatement to say I was floored to witness the craftsmanship and true glory of Suncun at LFW24. This show included an incredible total of 40 adult looks and another 15 childrens outfits. SUNCUN presented a collection inspired by the opulent Hada, a gossamer-adjacent scarf handwoven from fine silk. These scarves have a rich and turbulent history. Records dating back to the experience of an Italian Traveler, Marco Polo detail the gifts of ‘white products’ by Emperors of the Yuan Dynasty. Those of which scholars have considered to be the Hada scarves. 

Due to change in the trading landscape, a craft originally borne of generational skill and dedicated effort soon shifted to that of cheapened machine replication. Once creations reminiscent of goodwill and kindness toward humanity, high quality silk was replaced with synthetic alternatives and the trade receded in demand. SUNCUN’s collection is an homage to the revival of this practice’s beauty and historic significance of this ancient Chinese product. Much like the Hada scarf – this collection aims to create new pathways of cultural exchange and learning as a nod to China or the land of nurture. 

Nothing short of a masterpiece, the runway included womens, mens, and childrens’ garments; each more enthralling than the last. Pale blues transitioned into baby pinks, all the while silk fabrics were shapeshifting and dynamic. Pops of whimsy became a centerfold throughout, establishing themselves first via delicate embroidered details and quick darts of color. Asymmetrical shapes and hemlines drew the eye across the collection giving space for detail to shine through.

The collection came to a head when two of the most striking, entirely red pieces made their way onto the catwalk. The series exhibited cascading draping and detail via nuanced silhouettes. Embroidered images became more overt in shape, beginning with free flowing cloud-like imagery, these images shifted into lily pads, lanterns and birds. It was clear that traditional Chinese heritage influenced the collection in a way that brought its value to the forefront and engaged the viewer throughout. Immediately after the reveal of the most vibrant pieces in the collection, colors of white were followed by khaki and headed up by black sheer pieces with cutouts and shimmering adornments. 

Just when you thought you knew the direction the collection was taking, unforeseen additions made their way onto the floor in the way of heavy black sequining and silver netting. Pops of color came back into frame via blue and white waterfalling rhinestones, and red embroidery popping off of black garments. The truest star of the show was the final piece which was a near entirely black velvet floor length gown which was ornamented by shimmering floral embroidery and mesh sleeves. 

SUNCUN is guided by designer Yan Zhang, who is heavily dedicated to innovation, high levels of tailoring craftsmanship, and detailed pattern making. A focal point of his work is the safeguarding of cultural heritage with the aim of popularizing Cheongsam Fashion. A true leader in Chinese clothing, this team is composed of extremely skilled industry professionals. The energy in the room when the entire collection came together and designer Yan Zhang raised his hands above his head was unmatched. Truly an unforgettable runway show for the books. 

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Photography: Kiera Simpson
Words: Lauren Bulla