Momonary’s LFW Debut Goes for Gold…and Cool Comfort | AW24

As the sun set over the eclectic collage of ancient cobbled streets and the harsh architecture of the City’s financial district, Momonary presented their newest collection at their London Fashion Week debut, kicking off the 40th year of the iconic fashion festival. Co-founded in 2019 by Zeng Yue and Fu Fanding, Momonary are just one of a number of Chinese creatives bringing a fresh perspective to the LFW schedule. This season saw the Shanghai-London brand collaborate with American conglomerate 3M to blend fashion and scientific innovation. 

Set against the serene backdrop of the Grade I listed St Mary-at-Hill Church, Momonary’s Autumn/Winter 2024 collection featured a range of laidback, utilitarian shapes juxtaposed with the brand’s signature floral motifs and extravagant embellishments. Entitled “Mappa Mundi”, meaning ‘map of the world’ in Medieval Latin, the designers reached to expand the boundaries of contemporary ready-to-wear, outfitting models in wearable, oversized pieces to stay true to their “girlish yet fearless” aesthetic. Noteworthy looks included bomber jackets in the brand’s recognisable quilted fabrics paired with matching quilted trousers or bubble skirts, while delicate organza flowers bloomed across entire looks, as well as accessories like boots, berets and bags. Embellishments added interest to simpler looks, with many focusing on tailoring and featuring white shirts. With a subdued colour palette in comparison to previous seasons, the sandy neutrals suggestive of antique paper were also accessorised with berets. Some looks were styled with the now infamous It-shoes Moon Boots, a styling choice signifying that the trends of the ‘year of the girl’ continue to inform young designers as we move through 2024. However, rather than a superficial appeal to the TikTok trend conforming crowd, by using a shoe originally inspired by the 1969 moon landing, Momonary took their cartography inspired collection beyond the confines of this planet. 

The Space Age reference was also carried over with opulently gilded metallic hair and makeup. While last season Momonary showed that Spring/Summer 2024 was silver with their collection “Silver Lining”, the latest collection is definitely golden. A generous dusting of shimmery gold was applied all over the face by head MUA Jinny Kim’s team, while scattered single eyelashes softened the dramatic look to give models a doll-like appearance. Another highlight came in the form of intricate hairstyles crafted under the guidance of hairstylist Giuseppe Stelitano. With metallic curls reminiscent of powdered wigs, could this have been a nod to the American heritage of this season’s collaborator 3M and the theme of exploration? 

Momonary’s practical and innovative approach to modern femininity was further highlighted by the exclusive collaboration with 3M, a LFW first for the American material science innovators. By utilising fabrics from the 3M Thinsulate™ lines, Momonary garments promise to be durable, light and breathable, preparing the wearer for all kinds of adventures. All while looking fantastic, of course. In an industry, which has famously demanded suffering in the name of beauty and populated by designers seemingly deriving perverse pleasure from depriving women of pockets, it is refreshing to see a brand value both functionality and style.

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Photography: Lizzie Lenthall
Words and BTS Photography: Florentyna Syperek