Poetics of Movement ‘designed by an immigrant’ | LABRUM LFW AW22

London-based brand LABRUM’s ability to tell unique stories has rapidly became its hallmark. From one collection to another, the brand proves its power and influence. This season we teleported to Sierra Leone and the city of Freetown to celebrate a tribute to Movement. Not just a fashion show: it was a poetic revolution, underlining change, the beauty of migration, and a fight for a better tomorrow.  

The show started with a poem read by julianknxx and continued with a choir harmony which caused chills and never ended admiration. In a matter of seconds, the stream of silhouettes began to flow down the runaway, kicking off with a black suit embellished with large interwoven pockets. Six looks later, intense reds, brilliant oranges, ocean greens and vibrant yellows took over the catwalk brightening up the venue.

West African references such as hand-drawn and embraided Nomoli figures from the Mende and Kissi tribes of Sierra Leone (responsible for protection or good fortune) brighten up the hearts. Long coats, perfectly tailored suits and elegant dresses were so much in tune with a Sierra Leonean vibe. Poetic of Movement ‘deliberately incorporates points of familiarity in West African culture, looking at museum archives from places such as V&A and drawing colour inspiration from artist Jacob Lawrence’s The Migration Series, which has influenced the colour palette this season,’ the brand explained in a statement. LABRUM uses fashion as a storytelling medium. It’s all about not forgetting where you belong, where you come from and who you are; it’s about embracing it instead. 

The collection was designed in collaboration with luxury leather goods brand Nosakhari to create three bag shapes for AW22; a heavy-duty tote, a crossbody and a folio made from deadstock and leather off-cuts destined for the waste fields. Moreover, they used off-cuts from LABRUM design studio. Crossbody and folio have two distinct styles; camo print and a patchwork, while tote has five sophisticated colour combinations. 

Labrum in Latin means ‘having an edge’, and Foday Dumbuya does have it. Once again, he understood the assignment. Each time, he takes us on a journey to his hometown, and with each collection, he teaches us more about the African culture and its importance. Bringing awareness through fashion and a creative approach is a win-win. No losing today; we all got something for the body and the soul.
Thank you, LABRUM.

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Photography: Aoife Taylor
Words: Kinga Ludwin