Having caused quite a stir with a steamy sapphic PDA presentation last September, Sinéad O’Dwyer turned retrospective and moody for her autumn/winter 2025 collection Character Studies. These are the modern O’Dwyer women – self-assured, sleek and always sexy.
Despite establishing her eponymous label in 2018, current LVMH prize semi-finalist Sinéad O’Dwyer has already made quite a name for herself by creating statement designs for bodies of all sizes. The ArtEz University and Royal College of Art alumna quickly became one of London’s most exciting young designers after debuting with a graduate collection of moulded silicone pieces modelled by a diverse cast of models. Since then the Irish designer has collaborated with major magazines and dressed the likes of Arca, Björk, Barbie Ferreira and Yseult amongst others.
This season marked O’Dwyer’s last catwalk as a member of BFC’s prestigious NEWGEN incubator scheme. An opportunity to reflect upon her creative journey so far, Character Studies brought back some of the inspirations behind previous collections, all while reinterpreting and evolving the brand’s already recognisable silhouettes. Completely opting out of her usual pastels and vibrant hues in favour of strictly crisp whites, sombre blacks, oxblood reds and business greys, O’Dwyer’s women are all grown up. However, monochrome does not equal boring.
Signature shibari bodystockings, fitted bra-shirts and visible garter details with gunpowder grey hardware were paired with lustrous leather – a cape, micro kilts and laced-up trousers. Luxurious high-shine silks in red offered a sensual touch to classic shirts and ruched dresses, while tailored denim looks combined contemporary cool with chic cuts. Hair was slicked back and pulled back into tight buns, while makeup remained minimal, allowing the O’Dwyer heroines to remain the focus of the show.
A playfulness was added by bubble-soled boots – mimicking the shape of the flirty midi and maxi bubble skirts – created in collaboration with Tokyo-based brand Grounds, as well as laid-back sneakers and Speedcat ballet flats sponsored by Puma. Criss-cross lacing reminiscent of the fastening on Irish dance ghillies allowed for flexibility in fit and gave a subtle nod to the designer’s heritage.
Once again Sinéad O’Dwyer worked with casting director Emma Matell to choose her muses. The duo first collaborated in 2022, finding common language through their dedication to prove that luxury fashion can be diverse. Unlike many brands, O’Dwyer’s inclusivity goes beyond the runway, translating directly into the brand’s sizing, which ranges from 6 to 30. Character Studies once again expanded the horizons of the fashion industry, empowering all bodies to embody their most sophisticated, sultry selves.
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Words and Photography: Florentyna Syperek