LUEDER ‘CONVIVIUM’ | SS26

Marie Lueder presented her eponymous label’s SS26 collection on Saturday, September 20, bringing her blend of past and present back to London Fashion Week after debuting in 2024. The collection, titled Convivium, marked a welcome return for the Hamburg-born, London-based designer, who has cultivated a cult following for reinterpreting medieval motifs into futuristic silhouettes — what she calls “mental armour.”

Guests entered the runway set to find chairs scattered, shattered glass on the floor, and abandoned half-drunk goblets of red wine. At the centre stretched a long banquet table, with models later storming down its length as guests looked on from either side. A direct nod to Convivium — the Latin term for banquet or feast — the staging played to Lueder’s interest in medieval ritual. “I work with ideas of past, present, and future,” she said, discussing her work on Instagram. “I analyze the people around me and I want to make them feel more confident.”

Earthy tones dominated the collection’s colour palette, spliced with whites and creams, while denim, graphic tops, and hoodies were met with asymmetric cuts and casual layering. Lueder’s signature swirl design featured on a slate of garments, including a t-shirt, tank top, and a matching sweat set. The medieval references were sometimes more obvious than others – one showstopping white ensemble seemed to nod to a knight’s cloak, while another look featured a hooded collar, evocative of a modern mail coif. A few of the models sported pointed footwear reminiscent of poulaines, a type of shoe that created a moral panic in medieval London for its alleged affiliation with sexual deviancy and the devil.

This season also saw Lueder cross over to the high street. The SS26 runway doubled as the launch of her Pull & Bear collaboration, unveiled live during the show as part of the Spanish retailer’s Canvas for Creativity platform. Under the initiative, Lueder was granted full access to Pull & Bear’s resources, acting as guest creative director. Inspired by medieval carnival, the 20 garments and six accessories meshed well with her mainline, translating her “castlecore” aesthetic into a more accessible offering. The collection is available for purchase on Pull & Bear’s website, with prices ranging from £35 to £185.

After the finale, Lueder took to the runway herself, lifting a goblet from the banquet table and taking a sip – a final toast to a wildly successful feast.