JENN LEE’s ‘Study of Control and Loss of Control’ preserves the past for future progress

With fabric London flooded with blood-red lighting, guests settled into the iconic nightlife spot against a soundtrack mixing industrial techno, jazz, and Buddhist chants, eager to see Taiwanese brand JENN LEE showcase their latest collection. Known for an avant-garde aesthetic mixed with traditional Eastern influences, JENN LEE’s SS27 offering ‘Study of Control and Loss of Control’ found a perfect platform at London Fashion Week, famously a home to rebellious spirits and cross-cultural conversations.

A fascination with cultural memory informed the direction of the ‘Study of Control and Loss of Control’, a continuation of the brand’s Taiwan Qipao Craft Revival Project launched earlier this year, with founder Wei-Chen Lee partnering with and learning from a 75 year old Taiwanese master artisan.

The qipao has always been defined by precision and discipline. I wanted to respect that traditional construction while introducing the language of JENN LEE. By incorporating the classic qipao three-dart bust technique, the traditional garment is subtly transformed – retaining its discipline while taking on a sharper, more contemporary character. – Wei-Chen Lee, Founder & Creative Director, JENN LEE

Restrained elegance associated with the body-hugging silhouette of the qipao was met with a hint of danger and desire simmering under the surface, ready to erupt. This was apparent from the very beginning of the show, with the opening look showcasing a maxi dress with a pointed bust and exaggerated padded shoulders, reminiscent of armour. This was followed by deconstructed tailoring, and sharp yet sensual silhouettes, with dresses featuring asymmetric draping and wraparound zippers suggesting underlying tension.

While trademark JENN LEE gothic tendencies of ink black, crimson, and bone white dominated the collection, a delightful surprise came in the form of looks which showed the brand’s take on more romantic, feminine themes. These included an open-backed silky micro qipao in lavender, as well as a selection of hand-stitched white leather qipaos with floral prints. The latter exemplified Lee’s collaboration with Taiwanese textile artist Hsieh Hsiu-Hua, the founder of sustainability-focused Share Fun Studio. Natural plant pigment dyeing and non-toxic eco-printing methods were utilised to create unique prints evocative of nerves or roots, hinting at what might be hidden beneath the exterior. More than a pledge to greener practices, by utilising flora native to Taiwan Wei-Chen Lee ensured that her heritage was in constant dialogue with her designs.

From incorporating traditional qipao techniques such as ornamental frog closures and hand-sewn piping to incorporating indigenous plants, JENN LEE’s commitment to celebrating Taiwanese craftsmanship and culture is apparent throughout the collection. Through this reinterpretation of heritage craftsmanship, a new generation of qipao wearers emerges, unyielding and unbound.